Kolhapuri chappals blend heritage and tech as govt pushes for authenticity with QR certification
Kolhapur (PTI): The humble Kolhapuri chappal, one of India's most iconic traditional crafts, is enjoying renewed prominence not only in domestic fashion circles but also in international markets, amid Italian brand Prada being accused of appropriating the footwear.
The GI-tagged handmade flat leather sandals, known for their intricate craftsmanship and cultural heritage, now carry an added layer of protection and authenticity in the form of QR codes, thanks to recent technological and legal innovations.
The move aims to check counterfeiting and highlight the identity of the artisan behind each product, boost consumer trust and strengthen the market position of the traditional craftsmen, officials from the government-run Leather Industries Development Corporation of Maharashtra (LIDCOM) said.
Recently, artisans cried foul after footwear similar to the Kolhapuri chappals featured in Italian luxury fashion brand Prada's new collection, alleging violation of the GI (Geographical Indication) rights.
Following the row, Prada had acknowledged the sandals showcased in their men's 2026 fashion show were “inspired” by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear. The brand, however, clarified in a reply to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce that the showcased sandals are still at the design stage and not yet confirmed for commercial production.
A team of experts from Prada visited Kolhapur earlier this month to interact with artisans and assess the local footwear manufacturing process.
Dating back to the 12th century, the footwear has been primarily crafted in Maharashtra's Kolhapur, Sangli and Solapur districts. Its distinctive design, made using naturally tanned leather and handwoven straps, has been preserved through generations of artisans.
A major boost came in the early 20th century when visionary ruler Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj promoted it as a symbol of self-reliance and Swadeshi pride.
He encouraged the use of these chappals, helping elevate the rural craft into a respected cottage industry.
What was once a humble, coarse village slipper, soon became a symbol of swadeshi identity under the royal patronage.
To safeguard this cultural legacy and ensure fair recognition for artisans, the Maharashtra and Karnataka governments jointly secured the GI tag in 2019.
Under international trade rules such as the TRIPS agreement, this GI status legally reserves the rights to manufacture and market Kolhapuri chappals to artisans from specific districts in both the states.
The certification defines the product as handmade, using traditional techniques and natural leather, with open-toe construction, prohibiting the use of synthetic materials or mechanised processes.
Going a step further, the LIDCOM has introduced QR-coded certification for each pair of chappals, the corporation said in a statement.
This digital initiative aims to tackle counterfeiting and highlight the identity of the artisan or self-help group behind each product, it said.
Buyers scanning the code can access details like name and location of the artisan or production unit, district of manufacture in Maharashtra, craft techniques and raw materials used, validity and status of the GI certification.
"This initiative not only boosts consumer trust but also strengthens the market position of traditional craftsmen," the LIDCOM said.
The corporation is now calling upon consumers, designers and the common public to stand in solidarity with India's indigenous craft traditions.
"Kolhapuri chappals are not just fashion accessories. They are a powerful expression of traditional skill, identity and the dignity of small artisan communities," the statement quoted LIDCOM Managing Director Prerna Deshbhratar as saying.
Founded in 1974, LIDCOM has been a pivotal institution in empowering rural leather artisans. Through training programmes, market development, design innovation and economic support, the organisation has transformed traditional footwear-making into a symbol of Maharashtra's cultural pride and grassroots economy.
Kolhapuri chappals have now regained global spotlight, blending heritage with modern relevance.
More than just the traditional footwear, they are a symbol of skilled artisanry and indigenous pride.
Since 1974, LIDCOM, also known as the Sant Rohidas Charmodyog and Charmakar Vikas Mahamandal, has played a crucial role in preserving and promoting this heritage craft, as per the statement.
The corporation has empowered thousands of rural artisans by offering skill development training, encouraging innovation, expanding markets and ensuring sustainable livelihoods, it said.
On the organisation's vision, Deshbhratar, said, "Kolhapuri chappals are not merely utilitarian items. They embody stories of self-reliance, national pride and a living cultural tradition. Through our efforts, we aim to strengthen the hands that preserve this legacy and inspire generations to come."
Apart from economic uplift, the corporation is also committed to cultural conservation.
It continues to implement a wide range of initiatives -- from developing training centres and empowering self-help groups to building linkages between buyers and suppliers across domestic and international markets -- to ensure the traditional craft survives and thrives in a changing economic landscape, the statement said.
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2nd phase of Bengal poll: 39.97 per cent polling till 11 am amid sporadic violence
Kolkata (PTI): Nearly 40 per cent of the 3.21 crore electors voted till 11 am of the second phase of polling in West Bengal amid sporadic violence, while tension gripped the Bhabanipur seat briefly as Chief Minister Mamata Banerjee and Suvendu Adhikari took swipes at one another in the same booth area.
Voters queued up from 7 am outside booths in Kolkata, Howrah, Hooghly, Nadia, North and South 24 Parganas and Purba Bardhaman districts, which form Bengal's electoral and political core.
Of the total electorate eligible to vote in this phase, 1.57 crore are women, and 792 are third-gender.
Till 11 am, West Bengal recorded 39.97 per cent polling with Purba Bardhaman registering the highest turnout at 44.50 per cent, followed by Hooghly at 43.12 per cent and Nadia at 40.34 per cent.
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Howrah recorded 39.45 per cent polling, while North 24 Parganas registered 38.43 per cent. Kolkata North and Kolkata South recorded 38.39 per cent and 36.78 per cent turnout, respectively.
South 24 Parganas, a politically crucial district witnessing several high-profile contests, recorded 37.9 per cent voting.
The first phase of polls in 152 Assembly seats of West Bengal on April 23 also recorded more than 41 per cent polling till 11 am.
"Polling is underway peacefully, barring some minor incidents in certain areas. We have sought reports from the officials concerned," a poll panel official said.
The early-morning convergence of Banerjee and Adhikari at the same booth area in Chakraberia turned Bhabanipur -- the chief minister's electoral bastion -- into the centrepiece of the day, reinforcing the symbolic weight of their prestige battle seen as a rematch of Nandigram, where the BJP leader had defeated her in 2021.
Banerjee was already seated outside the booth after receiving complaints of alleged intimidation of local TMC leaders when Adhikari arrived there amid heavy deployment of central forces.
Stepping out of his car, Adhikari declared, "I will not allow any hooliganism", while Banerjee accused the BJP of trying to "rig" the election using central forces, police observers and election officials.
"BJP wants to rig this election. Polls in Bengal are usually peaceful. Is there goonda raj here?" Banerjee told reporters, alleging CRPF personnel had visited the homes of TMC leaders late Tuesday night and unleashed terror in the area.
She alleged that election observers were acting at the BJP's behest and claimed TMC workers were being selectively targeted across districts.
Adhikari dismissed the charges as signs of "frustration", claiming Banerjee had realised that "not a single vote" was coming her way.
Banerjee, who usually steps out of her Kalighat residence late in the day to cast her vote at Mitra Institution School, broke convention and hit the ground before 8 am, moving through Chetla, Padmapukur and Chakraberia, underlining the stakes attached to Bhabanipur and the wider battle for south Bengal.
Reports of violence, vandalism and tension surfaced from several districts.
In Nadia district's Chapra, a BJP polling agent was allegedly assaulted inside a booth during a mock poll. The BJP accused TMC supporters of attacking its agent, while the ruling party denied the charge. In Shantipur, a BJP camp office was found vandalised.
In South 24 Pargana's Bhangar, the ISF alleged that its polling agents were prevented from entering booths.
Howrah's Bally constituency saw tension at a booth in Liluah after an EVM malfunction delayed voting, prompting central forces to lathi-charge agitated voters. Two people were arrested in the matter.
Police and RAF personnel were also seen chasing away crowds near a booth in Amdanga following complaints of unlawful gathering by bike-borne supporters.
In Panihati, BJP candidate Ratna Debnath, the mother of the RG Kar victim, faced protests and her car was allegedly stopped by TMC workers, while in Jagaddal, the recovery of a firearm near a polling booth triggered tension before police and central forces restored order.
BJP candidate from Basanti assembly constituency in South 24 Parganas, Bikash Sardar, on Wednesday, alleged that "200-250 TMC goons" attacked his car and assaulted his driver when he was visiting polling booths in the constituency.
The TMC did not immediately respond to the allegations.
Unlike the first phase, where the BJP sought to defend its north Bengal gains, the final round has shifted the battle squarely to the TMC's strongest belt.
In 2021, the ruling party had won 123 of these 142 seats, leaving just 18 for the BJP and one for the ISF. For the BJP, breaching this southern fortress remains critical if it hopes to mount a serious challenge for power in the state.
